neighbourhood guide:

16th Arrondissement

Probably Paris's most grown-up arrondissement, the 16th is more family than funky. But the absence of the hipster movement has in no way sounded the death knell for this large and leafy quarter. Quite the opposite, the last few years have seen a slew of openings that seem to indicate that the 16th might just be the new place to be.

Restaurants

LE CHALET DES ILES // chalet-des-iles.com
As soon as the sun becomes a more permanent fixture, the Chalet des Îles comes into its own. A hidden haven by the lower lake in the Bois de Boulogne, this is an idyllic, romantic spot to lunch at the weekend. Disconnect from urban Paris as the swans sail past the waterfront terrace.

LE STELLA // lestella.fr
If you crave a ‘plateau de fruits de mer’ piled high with prawns, lobster, crab and crayfish, this is the place to head. Service is reassuringly old-fashioned and the clientele well-heeled. Begin your Parisian pilgrimage in their company. For nothing says Paris more than a dozen oysters washed down with a glass of Sancerre.

MONSIEUR BLEU // monsieurbleu.com
High ceilings and high glamour characterize this 16th arrondissement favourite with views across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower. The terrace may seem the obvious choice, but don’t shy away from a table inside. The beautiful grey marble and green velvet Joseph Dirand designed interior is wearing well.

Caffeine Fix

HOLIDAY VEGAN DINER // holiday-paris.fr
Opened by the proprietor of the magazine of the same name, the Holiday Vegan Diner (previously Holiday Café) is the perfect spot to enjoy breakfast, a mid-morning coffee, lunch, tea, cocktails or supper... Arrive early at the weekend for one of the coveted terrace tables and people-watch to your heart’s content.

CRAVAN // instagram.com/cravanparis
From the outside Cravan bears all the hallmarks of the classic Parisian café. First opened in 1911, it continues to serve coffee but is perhaps now better known for perfectly executed cocktails and excellent food in surroundings that owe much to the original belle époque design.

Our favourites in the Sixteenth

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Art & Culture

PALAIS DE TOKYO // palaisdetokyo.com
A contemporary art museum to rival any other on the world stage, the Palais de Tokyo is a brilliant space to while away a few hours on a rainy day. Open every day (except Tuesday) from midday until midnight, you can look, shop, eat and even dance!

PALAIS GALLIERA // palaisgalliera.paris.fr
It seems fitting that the world’s fashion capital should have a museum dedicated to ‘la mode’ and the Palais Galliera is just that. As its name would suggest, the museum is housed in an exquisite 19th century ‘beaux-arts’ palace. Permanent collections and ephemeral exhibitions (Balenciaga, Galliano, Alaïa...) are breathtaking.

Food Markets

LA GRANDE EPICERIE // lagrandeepicerie.com
The right bank offshoot of the legendary Le Bon Marché food hall is a serious food store for serious food lovers. Stock up on cheese, charcuterie, patisseries and wine before heading home for supper. You’ll be so glad you’re not staying in a hotel…

MARCHÉ DE L’ALMA //
Saturday mornings in Paris were made for markets like this. The Eiffel Tower holds court above the stalls which start to appear around 7am and remain open until 3pm. Super chef Alain Ducasse recommends the Bar à Patates where all manner of potatoes can be purchased, depending on whether you plan to make chips, roast or sauté them. They should never be peeled according to stall-holder Carine Bars.