neighbourhood guide:

9th Arrondissement

From the department stores of the boulevard Haussman to the west, to the once down-at-heel faubourgs Poissonière and Montmartre to the east, the 9th covers a wide sweep of the right bank. But high-end shopping haunts are not the heart and soul of this deeply artistic arrondissement. Seek out instead the beautiful streets that reach up towards Montmartre and lose yourself amongst 19th century mansions, independent stores and restaurants of great character.

Restaurants

BUVETTE // ilovebuvette.com
It’s rare for a New York restaurant to open an outpost in Paris but Buvette does indeed come to the 9th direct from the West Village and we’re mighty glad it made the trip. Open from 8.30 am until midnight every day, the atmosphere is always wonderful and the food is pretty (and) perfect.

LA CONDESA // lacondesa-paris.com
Teeny tiny and recently endowed with a Michelin star so do remember to book. The attention to detail is exceptional. Japanese inspired crockery has been hand-thrown with the menu in mind. The 6-course La Condesa menu is one exquisite treat after another.

LE RICHER // lericher.com
Cool and laid-back with a sunny disposition. Cooks like a dream. If this sounds like your perfect partner, make Le Richer your haunt of choice. You can’t book but by the time you are glass-in-hand watching the goings-on from the bar, you won’t mind one bit.

After Hours

ARTISAN // instagram.com/artisanbarparis
Seriously good cocktails in the city that took it’s time making the shift away from the ubiquitous verre de vin at aperitif time. Delicious small plates of food make this a spot to start the evening or to while away the hours happily come supper time.

Our favourites in the 9th

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Stores

LAB // lab-boutique.com
The softest linen in a range of beautiful colours and patterns for Paris-shaped dreams. A small and perfectly chosen selection of homeware completes the picture.

MON BLEU // monbleu.fr
A ‘fromagerie’ with restaurant attached. Open until 11pm for those ‘I’m in Paris and must eat cheese and drink red wine’ style emergencies. Your host will love you if you arrive for dinner with a Mon Bleu box. Your neighbour on the Eurostar less so...

Arts & Culture

PALAIS GARNIER // operadeparis.fr
If you only do one thing in the 9th, make it an opera or a ballet at the Palais Garnier. And if tickets are thin on the ground, go inside to gaze at the ceilings, especially the one in the auditorium painted by Chagall in 1964.

FOLIES-BERGÈRE // foliesbergere.com
Where did the Parisians of Impressionist-era Paris go to let their hair down? The Folies-Bergère of course. You might recognise the name from Manet’s painting ‘Bar at the Folies Bergere’, which depicts the bustle of this famous 19th century concert hall. Throughout the years that followed, the hall was filled with enthralling dancers and entertainers, including the likes of Josephine Baker. The Art-Deco facade which remains today shimmers in gold like a dancer’s feathered fan, fluttering to passers-by the theatrics which await inside.

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Sweet Treats

A LA MÈRE DE FAMILLE // lameredefamille.com
Apparently the oldest chocolatier in Paris. Regardless of the veracity of the claim, the chocolates are excellent and the store beautiful. The cakes and ice creams are also very fine.

SÉBASTIEN GAUDARD // sebastiengaudard.com
This pale blue, mirrored beauty of a patisserie on the rue des Martyrs makes for an excellent pitstop as you walk uphill towards Montmartre. Try the millefeuille or a réligieuse (or three).

MUSÉE DE LA VIE ROMANTIQUE // museevieromantique.paris.fr
As the name suggests, this is the perfect spot for a romantic tea amongst the roses in the garden of this pretty museum. Local favourite (and cake supremacist) Rose Bakery is in charge of the kitchen.