Choose a vacation rental in Paris’s 3rd arrondissement and you’ll be perfectly placed to explore the Marché des Enfants Rouges, where food, culture, and history come together in one lively spot.
Nestled in the Marais, Marché des Enfants Rouges is the kind of place that just feels alive. Local chatter, the smell of sizzling street food, and the colourful piles of fruit and flowers combine, creating their own sensory carnival. This market is unique not only for its atmosphere, but for its history: it is Paris’s oldest covered market, established over 400 years ago. You’ll find it in the 3rd arrondissement, which is an eloquent, animated neighbourhood.
From 1615 to Today: A Short History
Initially opened in 1615, when King Louis XIII decreed that it supply fresh food to the burgeoning Marais district, Marché des Enfants Rouges was then closed for centuries until an entrepreneur reopened it in 2000. Its curious name, “Children in Red,” comes from the nearby orphanage whose children wore bright red uniforms, a symbol of charity at the time. For hundreds of years, the market thrived as the locals’ most trusted place to get the essentials they needed to eat and live. And although many of the Parisian markets withered away, this one survived, an indication of the community’s commitment to it. Today, it is not just a piece of living history, but a social club that connects the past to the city’s constantly morphing present.
A Marketplace Like No Other
The second you step through the threshold, a mix of stall-owners greet you. There are old-school vendors whose tables are set with glistening vegetables, creamy cheeses, fresh flowers and baguettes that look as if they landed directly from a postcard. Alongside those French counterparts, however, the real magic is in the global food stalls. Moroccan tagines bubble away, Japanese bento boxes are carefully assembled, and Italian pasta combinations are cooked in your view in a great flurry of activity. There are also Lebanese, Caribbean and even organic juice bars dotted throughout the market. The resulting melting pot of flavours is a reflection of Paris itself: deeply traditional and yet gloriously cosmopolitan.
Eating Your Way Around
Food is the beating heart of Marché des Enfants Rouges, and you’d be hard-pressed to do anything wrong at all. If you’re after something warming, you must visit the Moroccan stall with fragrant couscous and slow-cooked tagines that fill the air with spice. For a lighter option, go for a freshly pressed juice or a galette from the crêperie. Then there are the star players: Chez Alain Miam Miam at 26 Rue Charlot, known for its towering sandwiches filled with grilled vegetables, cheese and meats, all wrapped in crunchy bread. There is a line, but it’s legendary. Yet another gem is Chez Taeko at 37 Rue Charlot, where Japanese home cooking is the star. Think donburi, miso soup and dainty sushi rolls. However, seating indoors can be tough as it’s usually jammed. Can’t secure a spot? Carry out your meal to Square du Temple park nearby for a picnic-style feast.
Where Community and Culture Met
Marché des Enfants Rouges is more than a shopping or eating destination; it is deeply embedded in the Marais’s cultural life. The market reflects the area’s diverse population, mixing long-time Parisians, newcomers and curious tourists. It’s also a popular location for photographers and artists, who are lured by the striking colours, atmospheric lighting and high-energy vibe. Dining there isn’t just about eating well; it’s about experiencing dim sum as a reflection of how Parisians connect with their history and the wider world. In many ways, it’s a living canvas of the city itself.
Practical Tips for Visitors
The market is closed on Mondays, and you can visit nearly any other day: Tuesday to Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. (open a bit later on Thursdays until 9:30 p.m.) and Sundays from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Mornings are the best time, especially if it’s produce shopping you’re after and not crowds. Lunchtime is more of a packed but buzzy scene, great if you like to leap into food stalls. The nearest metro stop is Filles du Calvaire (Line 8), but you can also get off at Temple (Line 3) or nearby lines 5 and 9. The market is somewhat covered, so it’s workable in the rain, but seating can be scarce and closely clustered. A good pair of shoes and some patience are all you’ll need.
Visitor Tips:
- Closed on Mondays. Open Tuesday to Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. (until 9:30 p.m. on Thursdays) and Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
- Go in the morning for fresh produce and fewer crowds. Visit at lunchtime for a busy, lively food-stall scene
- Nearest metro stops are Filles du Calvaire (Line 8), Temple (Line 3), or lines 5 and 9 nearby
- The market is partly covered but seating is limited. Comfortable shoes and a bit of patience are helpful
From Stalls to Streets: Exploring the 3rd Arondissement
Begin your day in the 3rd arrondissement with a stroll through the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges. Staying in a luxury vacation rental here means you can slip easily from a leisurely lunch to walks along cobbled streets, browsing charming boutiques, or an afternoon spent in one of the district’s museums. From history and art to people-watching at a café terrace, this market sets the tone for discovering one of Paris’ most dynamic neighbourhoods.
