There is something instantly charming about stepping into one of Paris’ covered passages. With their 19th-century glass roofs letting soft daylight stream through and their patterned mosaic floors, they feel like time capsules. Staying in a luxury vacation rental in the 9th arrondissement puts you close to these evocative spaces, lined with boutique shops, second-hand bookshops, cosy cafés, and hidden corners that invite you to linger.
The blend of nostalgia and modern retail makes any given passageway feel both historic and pulsing with life. These are some of the most atmospheric in the 9th arrondissement, just waiting to be discovered.
A Little History of Paris’ Covered Passages
Paris’ arcades date back to the early 19th century and were created as covered shopping streets where Parisians could walk in style, no matter the weather. With handsome ironwork, glazed ceilings and tiled floors, they were a mix of practicality and glamour. These passages quickly became a crossroad of Parisian social and commercial life, filled with trendy boutiques, antiquarian book dealers, cafés and even theatres. Before the big department stores arrived, the arcades were the place where locals shopped, gossiped and met.
Passage Jouffroy
Adress:
10-12 Bd Montmartre.
Hours:
Monday to Sunday 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
The Passage Jouffroy, which was inaugurated in 1847, is one of the most captivating of Paris’s arcades. Its glass-and-metal design was undeniably modern for the time, and it still has an airy, sleek feel. As you stroll through, the patterned tile underfoot and the natural light flooding in through the glass ceiling set a stage that’s every bit as appealing as it is photogenic.
The sheer diversity of places to explore really sets Jouffroy apart. The Musée Grévin, Paris’ popular wax museum, has its entrance tucked away in the covered passageway so that you can turn your exploration into a bit of theatrical history. Play shops, unique bookstores and antiquated boutiques line this strip, bringing in a crowd of locals and visitors. It’s an enjoyable passage for families as children can peer at old-fashioned toys while parents peruse rare books or pop in for a treat at one of the passage’s tearooms.
Passage Jouffroy has preserved the atmosphere of 19th-century Paris and continues to be a vibrant part of the city. Whether you’re here for the shops, the museum, or just to gawk at the architecture, it’s the sort of place that reminds you why Paris’ covered passages remain one of the more singular experiences you can have in the city.
Passage Verdeau
Adress:
6 Rue de la Grange Batelière.
Hours:
Monday to Sunday 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Directly linked to Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau seems like it should be more of the same, but its profile is a little different. Constructed in 1847, it oozes the same light-filled architecture, with a glass roof that fills the interior with a glow even on cloudy Paris days. What makes Verdeau different is its quieter, contemplative tone.
This is the passage for antique enthusiasts and treasure hunters. There are stores devoted to vintage photography, rare books and prints; these are the types of places where you can lose hours flipping through ancient images of Paris or hunting for that one strange edition. There are also antique vendors with a rotating selection of curiosities, from dainty knick-knacks to opulent furnishings.
If you prefer your shopping marathons to be more leisurely, this is an ideal stop, with lots of opportunities to stop and soak up the building details. Together, Jouffroy and Verdeau make a perfect pair, offering two sides of the 19th-century arcade experience: one lively and theatrical, the other quieter and steeped in nostalgia.
Passage du Havre
Adress:
109 Rue Saint-Lazare.
Hours:
Monday to Wednesday, Saturday 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Thursday to Friday 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Sunday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
The Passage du Havre is quite a different sort of place. First opened at the end of the 19th century, it was modernised in the 1990s to get a sleeker look while staying a buzzing shopping hub. Today, its shiny glass ceiling and minimalist interior host a blend of modern retail brands, lifestyle stores and cafes, turning it into a convenient stop to pick up everyday items.
Right near Gare Saint-Lazare, the Passage du Havre is ideal for travellers on the move, or anyone looking to explore the area. It’s not exactly as cute and old-world as Jouffroy, or Verdeau for that matter, but it’s lively and valuable, and it represents the way that the city has evolved the concept of covered passages to suit its own ends. If you want to mix in some history with a little bit of modern convenience, then this is the arcade you need to have on the list.
Making the Most of Your Passage-Hopping Day
The joy of exploring the 9th arrondissement’s covered passages lies in the ease with which they link together. Staying in a holiday apartment here allows you to start at Passage du Havre near Gare Saint-Lazare, stroll on to Passage Jouffroy, and finish at Passage Verdeau. Along the way, pause at a hidden café or linger over lunch in a bistro, surrounded by antiques, boutique shops, and ornate architecture. This neighbourhood perfectly blends nostalgia with Parisian style.
