Staying in a holiday apartment in the 2nd arrondissement means you’re just steps away from its enchanting covered passages, where it feels as though you’ve travelled back in time to another century. Here, the noise and traffic of Paris give way to echoes of footsteps on stone floors and light streaming through glass roofs. Each passage has its own character; some are calm and refined, others are alive with chatter, but all share the same allure: the joy of discovery. Tucked away on quiet streets, they feel like secret worlds waiting to be explored.
Why Paris Fell in Love with Covered Passages
It was the early 19th century, and the streets of Paris were abuzz with innovation. The covered passages were conceived as places where people would be able to relax, eat and shop in comfort throughout the year, free from bad weather. These graceful arcades with glass ceilings rapidly became the playground of the Paris middle class. They provided a stylish escape from the chaos of the city’s outdoor markets.
The 2nd arrondissement was at the epicentre of the trend, thanks to its central location and bustling commercial culture. Many of the passages built here still exist, preserved carefully and kept alive today. Some resisted gentrification and remain full of old-world glamour. This arrondissement is home to more than its fair share of these treasures, and it is the ideal district to go passage-hopping.
Passage du Grand Cerf
Address:
145 Rue St Denis.
Hours:
Monday to Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 7:45 p.m.
The second you walk into Passage du Grand Cerf, you really can’t avoid looking up. Its towering, elaborate iron structure extends to the sky, ultimately culminating in a beautiful glass ceiling, through which light pours into the walkway. Dating from 1825, it is one of the most impressive of the passages in Paris, both for its architecture and its atmosphere.
Unlike others that rely on luxury and luxury alone, Passage du Grand Cerf has a wonderfully eclectic disposition. It’s lined with independent boutiques, from jewellery makers and vintage curios to artisan workshops selling handcrafted wares. You’ll also stumble on quirky concept stores that feel more like miniature galleries than shops. It’s the type of place where you might lose the thread of time, dropping into shops that you didn’t realise you were looking for.
When the locals and the curious wanderers mix, the passage becomes most vibrant in late afternoon. Those mornings, however, are relatively quiet, and if you want to really admire the design and get good photos of it without as many people in the way, it’s best to go just after the shop opens. Either way, there’s always something new to spot in this lovely, vaulted arcade.
Passage des Panoramas
Address:
11 Bd Montmartre.
Hours:
Monday to Saturday 6 a.m. to 12 a.m.
Passage des Panoramas holds the crown as one of the oldest covered passages in Paris, opening its doors back in 1799. Walking inside is like stepping through time. The narrow, tile-lined pathway and the warm light of the old-style lamps make for a fabulously retro environment. It’s not polished in the way that some passages are, and that’s very much its charm.
History dorks will be thrilled with the Théâtre des Variétés next door. For decades, the passageway has been linked to the world of theatre, attracting artists, performers and audiences through its doors. Today, it retains a historic soul, augmented by antique stamp dealers, vintage postcard sellers and eccentric collecting emporiums.
And then there’s the food. Passage des Panoramas is lined with small restaurants and bistros, with some seating spilling into the arcade. It’s one of the city’s great casual-dining places. The locals love Racines with its countrified vibe and a menu heavy on wine. If you’re craving something sweet, you’ll find nothing wrong in ducking into one of the crêperies nearby. This passage is easy to linger in long with its history and tasty pitstops.
Passage Choiseul
Address:
40 rue des Petits Champs.
Hours:
Monday to Saturday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
If Passage des Panoramas feels like a trip into the past, Passage Choiseul has a more modern, lived-in vibe. At 190 meters, it’s also the longest covered passage in Paris, so there’s much to explore. It’s not as lavishly appointed as some of its neighbours, but it compensates with a vibrant, family-friendly atmosphere.
Here you’ll find toy stores, casual eateries and lots of modern shops that all keep the place buzzing with life. It’s a kind of passage that feels less like a museum piece and more like a part of daily Parisian life. Families stroll through on weekends, children press their noses against shop windows, and office workers dash in for a quick lunch. It’s accessible and fun, a nice respite from the slicker arcades nearby.
Galerie Vivienne
Address:
4 rue des Petits Champs.
Hours:
Monday to Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
If there’s one spot that encapsulates Parisian chic, it’s Galerie Vivienne. Designed in 1823, it’s known for its expansive mosaics, classical statues and magnificent glass roof. Every nook and cranny in here is so thoughtfully styled, which is why this is a photographer’s favourite spot. Even if you are not hauling around a camera, you are likely to find yourself slowing down, just to take in all the details.
The Galerie Vivienne is also home to quality shopping. Think design boutiques, high-end bookshops, and fine wine merchants. Prices may not necessarily be kind to the wallet, but the browsing is a thrill in its own right. And if shopping isn’t your scene, the passage is just a cool place to visit. It’s a living postcard of 19th-century Paris, not too polished, not too staged.
Making the Most of Your Covered Passage Adventure
The beauty of exploring these passages is how close they are to one another. You can easily see all four in a single loop, weaving in and out of history and modern life. Take your time, dip into cafés for a coffee or glass of wine, and let yourself get lost a little; you never know what hidden gems you’ll find just around the corner.
For vacation rental and holiday apartment guests, the 2nd arrondissement offers the perfect blend of central Paris convenience and timeless charm, with its covered passages providing a glimpse into a hidden world of history, character, and discovery.
